file under: My Sewing Obsession....The Bobbin Doctor.......Steve Pauling
Class - Shirts: Patterns to Production
Class Dates: August 2, 3 & 4 at The Ribbonerie in San Francisco, Friday afternoon, 1-4 PM; Sat., 9:30-5 PM; Sun. 10-4:30 PM.
Shirts, for both men and women, may be the most commonly worn garment in the world. A well-detailed and skillfully fitted fine dress shirt may be critical to the all-important first impression. Even a custom-fitted casual shirt is a very visible garment, which through the comfort of its fit and the finesse of its finish, gives the wearer ease and confidence. Designing and constructing a shirt which compliments its wearer is a long honored craft involving very specialized pattern design, meticulous fabric-handling and skillful mechanical techniques.
Steve Pauling brings his background in architecture, furniture design and construction into the fashion world. Over the course of decades, his widely varied design experience and his analytical mindset have come together in the fit and construction of the perfect shirt. This is his first appearance on the national scene.
This 2.5-day workshop begins with an overview of contemporary shirt designs for all body types and occasions for men and women. In the Pattern segment of the class, students will learn half-scale draping of a shirt front and back for the perfect individual fit and how to transform the draped design into a flat pattern. Different sleeve and cuff designs will be reviewed for style and comfort before students draft a sleeve from their draped bodice.
In the Production segment of the workshop, students will learn special techniques for constructing beautiful, precise and professional looking details found on the ‘bespoke’ level. Some of the techniques demonstrated will include the three-roll collar for a beautiful and stable appearance; the precise join between cuff and sleeve without excess bulk; the professional looking encased armscye for comfort and style; bagging the yoke and several techniques for flat felled seams.
Following a series of demonstrations, students will construct many of the special techniques, creating a book of samples for subsequent use. A pattern kit for samples will be provided. While all levels of experience are welcome, participants should have a general knowledge of garment sewing skills.
PLEASE NOTE: The maximum class enrollment is 18 students. We must have 12 enrolled by 5PM on Monday, July 1, one month prior to the class. Without a minimum enrollment, regretfully, the class will need to be cancelled and the registration fees will be refunded. We recommend that airline tickets be purchased after the minimum enrollment deadline in case of cancellation. Hotel reservations can be made since the cancellation window is usually 24-48 hours prior. Approximately 3 weeks before the class, all registrants for the class will receive a welcome email confirming registration, any updated information and information about reserving a spot for dinner Saturday evening at the Magic Flute -- famous for their desserts!
1. Pencils, red, blue and black
2. Rulers: Small French curve and 6” straight ruler
3. Sewing Machine (straight stitch is all that is necessary, with 5/8” and 1/2” seam allowance markings), bobbins. Remember to bring the cords and foot control. Those flying in may use one of the several extra machines in the room.
3.1. Required sewing machine presser feet:
Rolled hemmers (approximately 3/16-1/4” or equivalent) Regular adjustable zipper foot
3.2. Optional sewing machine presser feet:
Flat felling foot
Zig zag foot
4. Size 80/12 Universal machine needles
5. Standard 50 weight sewing thread (Dual Duty, Metrosenne, Gutterman, Superior, etc.). Pre-wind a bobbin with thread. Any medium to light color acceptable.
6. Hand sewing needles
7. Pins and holder/cushion
8. Smaller sharp scissors capable of precise trimming of fabric and threads.
9. Seam ripper
10. Fabric markers
11. Flexible sewing tape measure
13. 3 yds of muslin.
Still photographs are permitted but not video or audio recordings.
Location: The class will be held in the lower floor of the The Ribbonerie, 3695 Sacramento St (at Spruce) San Francisco, CA, a charming ribbon store that is quite famous in San Francisco. See this recent story about its owner, Paulette Knight or The Ribbonerie and Map. Sacramento Street is a San Francisco treasure for fashion people, a seriously wonderful street with unique shops and great restaurants. Check its treasures here. It is well-known for its wonderful restaurants and easy lifestyle -- a great place to be!
Lodging: The Laurel Inn, 444 Presidio Avenue, San Francisco, CA 94115, see website. The Inn is within walking distance of the class. Maps & Directions Phone: 415-567-8467. If you would like to be informed of who else would be interested in sharing a room, send us an email.
Transportation: If flying in, the best advice is to take a shuttle from the airport to the Inn.
Parking: If driving, parking is available on the street Saturday and Sunday. Friday parking is best at the public parking garage located at
California and Locust.